Tuesday, November 22, 2011

Cupping and Scraping

OR FORAYS INTO CHINESE MEDICINAL PRACTICES

I was feeling sick. Feeling stressed. Anxious. I had just started an antibiotic round to cure my G.I. disease of the week: Giardia. (I started the semester with a three-month case of intestinal worms, then had such bad food poisoning that I was put an IV drip at the campus hospital. Fuck you, natural pesticides.) In under 2 weeks, I obsessively watched the entire first and second season of The Vampire Diaries. Something was terribly wrong. So when offered a chance to make things better, I jumped on it. Even if it meant taking a knife to my back. Or being covered with perfectly circular hickie-like marks, as if I had made love to a giant octopus just the night before.

My roommate was off to cure her cold with some good, old-fashioned cupping and scraping. This balances the "wind" and "fire" in your body. By returning your body to its proper balance, you're returned to health. Or so I was told. I didn't really understand the treatment. All I knew was that if anyone was out of balance, I was. So I prescribed cupping and scraping to myself. And joined Alexandra under the knife, fire, and glass fish bowls.

My limited knowledge of Chinese medicine involves my fascination with "hot" and "cold" food. Food that, irregardless of its scientifically-measurable temperature, is always hot. Or cold, as the case may be. Cold foods include rice, soy beans, watermelon, and ice cream. Hot foods include noodles, mangoes, chilies, and potatoes. You must eat the correct ratio of hot to cold to stay healthy or to regain your health...which is all based on what condition your body is in at the current moment and what the weather happens to be doing. If you ignore this balance, your body reacts...badly. For example, during your period, you shouldn't eat cold foods because they cause cramps. (I still find this hard to believe.) I love it when my Chinese friends say, "OH my cramps are so terrible! I must have eaten too much ice cream."

Chinese medicine is not just pills or smelly herbal concoctions, it's a lifestyle. So off to the masseuse, I went. For around $4 or 25 RMB, I got 45 minutes of her attention. I didn't get to see a second of the procedure. I was just told to take my coats and shirt off, lie on my stomach on a cold massage bed (in front of a fan-turned-heater), and stick my head through the hole. I tried to relax. She pulled out some sort of knife, and then went to town on my back. It felt like someone was scratching me with their nails, not softly but not hard either. And with a fair bit of pressure too. The feeling was mildly annoying, but easy to tune out. Each scrape came with a loud sound of dry skin against blade. She never made me bleed, but as you can see from the pictures, she brought a lot of blood up to the surface. She stretched my skin this way and that to get better scraping angles. She really loved scraping my shoulders. All and all, it was mildly entertaining, constantly wondering when this was supposed to hurt. (All Chinese medicine seems to be painful in one way or another.) It never was.

She was finished, and so brought her fish bowls over in a giant plastic crate. OK...they weren't really fish bowls, just tiny glass globes with a end lopped off that I loved imagining the tiniest of fish calling home. Picking up an oil-soaked, lighter-lit cotton ball, turned ball of fire, with metal tongs, she heated up the air inside one bowl. It was time for the cupping to begin. She started with my left shoulder. SLURP went my skin into the bowl. As she put more and more on, I felt my back becoming tighter and tighter, until I was sure I could not move. The skin stretched so tight, I felt like I was being laced into something, like a corset made of the strongest bubbles. It was nice feeling being so secure.

But a few minutes passed. I swear my skin was being pulled bit by bit, a little more and a little more into the bowls. And even when I thought there was no way my skin could be sucked and stretched any more, even then, the suction kept going. It kept going on and on. I was in so much pain that I was twitching on this table...when moments before I swore I could not move. They had draped a blanket over my bumpy, glass back, and I felt like a monster going through some terrible transformation, slowly. Ever so slowly.

I broke. I lay there strapped into my secure corset of glass, and no one could save me. I just started floating. Mentally, I was just gone, and there was only peace with a background constantly awash with pain. Somewhere after reaching this place, the masseuse came back. She took the globes off, one by one. Starting exactly where she had started. Under her fingertips, the bowls easily popped off my back, as if I had made up the feeling of complete bondage. By the time she got to my right side, the pain building up there was threatening to consume me. Those cups did not come off as easily as the ones before.

I put my shirt back on, took a taxi ride home, ate dinner with friends, then passed out early. Deeply. That peace stayed. At the price of a purple/red-spotted, useless back. (I couldn't sleep on my side or back for 3 days.) The bruises stayed longer. Two weeks later, I could still see faint circles on my shoulders.

The days after the procedure were strange. I felt like I had the flu. I was exhausted and weak, though calm. I ate little. When I told my Chinese friends, I was universally reprimanded. "Why did you get that?" I had not had a cold. Cupping and scraping are supposed to cure very specific illnesses, not just balance a person. They looked at me as if I had casually mentioned I had played with fire, and believed that to be a good cultural learning experience. Be careful, playing with culture. Or, as I did, play away.

A NOTE ON THE PICTURES: The first two pictures were taken a few hours after I was cupped and scraped. The third picture was taken 24 hours after. The forth picture was taken 48 hours after. The last picture was taken 4 days afterwards.

Tuesday, November 15, 2011

Naming the Face of China's Next Generation

OR FREE WILL IN CHINESE CLASSROOMS

O, be some other name!
What's in a name? That which we call a rose
By any other name would smell as sweet.

--William Shakespeare's
Romeo and Juliet (2.2.44-46)

We don't use Chinese names in English class. Call me lazy. Or culturally insensitive. But across China, using English "names" in ESL class is standard practice. "Ok, class. For homework, please pick an English name." I provided no name sheets. And I did my best to not pass judgement. The assignment was about freedom and choice, self-expression and self-definition. I had changed my name when I entered college. And so, I gave my students the same option.

Some chose English spellings of their Chinese names (Yilin). One girl chose a Chinese spelling of an English name (Annine). Others handed in your typical white American names (Anna, Sara, Caroline, Grace). Still others handed in your typical African American names (Letisha, Akili). Nice names all. But names that will not get you noticed by me -- someone who is very talented at forgetting names at the drop of a hat.

To get remembered, you need to try a little harder. Like my student from last year, Rebecca, a tall and husky Chinese man. I will go to the grave with his name etched into my memory.

I don't believe in standardization. I don't think it was my job to take Rebecca's name away because he was not nor wanted to be a girl.

This post is my wall of fame to those whose names I will never forget. This is what happens when you introduce creativity and free will into a Chinese classroom. May they amuse and entertain, enlighten and perhaps explain. I wish I could tell you why these names were picked. If my students' English were good enough, maybe I'd have them write a 500-word essay on the symbolism of their name choice.

But since it's not and I won't, please enjoy the mystery.







Saturday, November 5, 2011

Traveling through Summer 2011: Beijing & Bali (Pictures)

OR WITNESS MY WILD ESCAPADES THROUGHOUT 4 COUNTRIES IN 2 MONTHS - PART I

This summer I took Southeast Asia by storm, by visiting Indonesia, Thailand, Cambodia, and Southern China. My first stop -- the island of Bali in Indonesia -- was one of the most visually stunning places I have ever been. "Take my picture and say my culture is beautiful." It's hard to help but exoticize Bali, and most of SE Asia because it is beautiful, tourist-y, and the locals are in the far, faraway background. All this being said, I did enjoy my trip, and witnessing these very interesting social trends (Taigu, a town smack-dab in the middle of coal minning company could never be considered sexy, exotic, and alluring) and I hope you will too.



It all started with a gift. This wall hanging was our end-of-the-year present from our bosses. Unfortunately, in true Chinese fashion, they decided to give it to us in a very lavish, ceremonial way...an hour before my train left -- making goodbyes impossible, and making missing my train, inevitable. But somehow...




I arrived in Beijing. Almost all my flying happens out of this city, and besides I needed to add passport pages and meet the new fellows. This is the American embassy with President Obama on the Great Wall. What you can't see is the hundreds of Chinese nationals in line waiting for visas. It took an hour to get into the building, after which I was ushered into a different room for citizens that had about 5 people in it. After handing over $80, I got a passport thick with pages. I rushed off to meet the new fellows, Skylar and Claire. I then had a fun adventure on the Beijing subway, where I decided that I could go from where my dinner was (center of Beijing), to where my luggage was being stored (the far west side), to where the night's housing was (the far east side)...in 2 hours. As I ran with my two backpacks (one, the size of me; the other, the size of a small child) through many line transfers. Stations closed around me and trains would stop in the middle of their lines. By the time the subway closed at 11pm, I somehow ended up farther away from my destination than if I had never gotten on the subway (after getting my bags)! And I was in the seediest part of Beijing I've ever seen. The taxi drivers wouldn't drive me unless I paid double the normal price, because they wouldn't pick up any customers going in my direction. Somehow a very nice Chinese bookseller took a taxi with me to his car and then drove me to a place where my host said had agreed to pick me up after I kept frantically calling her. (Did I mention her cell phone was dying during this whole catastrophe?) Through a lot of kindness and luck, I got to bed that night...at 3 am.




After a flight the next day (thank god my host lives ten minutes from the airport), I arrived at 5am, in Denpasar, Bali, Indonesia. I went straight to my most expensive hotel of the trip (the only prebooked one) -- at $40/night. I messed up the dates of the hotel, so for the price of 2 nights, I got 3. For no extra charge I went straight to bed at 5am, then had booked the 2 following nights. I proceed to sleep my way through those nights and days.






My hotel was an odd mix of the sacred and the profane.




In my sleep-deprived state, it was super amusing to walk around.




I finally pulled myself together and out of bed to spend an afternoon at Kuta beach, less than an hour's drive from my hotel. This beach is the hot spot/bane of many's existences. It is crowded, over-priced, and could easily be confused with Little Australia.




But I found ways to amuse myself for a few hours. I wish I could have gone to this.




Instead, I listened to some live music, read my book, ate some Middle Eastern food.




And watched baby turtles being re-released into the ocean. Very cute!




Finally it was time to leave Denpasar and go to Ubud, a city full of art, music, and eco-tourism. A complete by-product of tourist demand, mind you.




These are pictures of my $12/night hotel. I found it by walking down alley after alley off of Monkey Forest Road.




It did come with free banana pancakes.




But the room was not nearly as nice as the food or the front garden.




After spending my days window-shopping in the many art galleries on Monkey Forest Road, I went to a Jegog performance. Jegog is type of music and dance style. The instruments? A giant bamboo gamelan.




Here is me and some of the dancers.




Gender is a very fluid concept cross-culturally. So even though I think my body is very feminine-looking and was wearing scarves, no one knew if I was a boy or girl. "Hi I'm Ray." Confused look. "...Short for Rachel." "HA HA I wasn't sure if you meant Rachel or Raymond. HA HA" This happened every time I introduced myself to a Balinese person. So I decided to go more femme. What's more femme than earrings? After I bought these -- even though they're quite masculine -- my perceived gender confusion seemed to disappear.




Happy Fourth of July! Wanting to feel a little more at home, I wore red, white, and blue and ate pizza and garlic bread.




The next day I took an eco-tourism bike tour.




We had breakfast overlooking a volcano.




And then biked downhill for the rest of the trip.




Here is me and my new Aussie friends trying Indonesian coffee on our eco bike tour. Did you know the most expensive coffee comes from here? Kopi Luwak. It's so expensive because the beans must first pass through the digestive system of the Luwak animal before being roasted. Yes, it's poop coffee. And it tastes terrible.




We visited a local's home and found a great gym setup.




I loved the rice paddies.




They are so unbelievably beautiful when they reflect back the clouds in the sky.




That evening I decided to buy a mask. Two actually. One was a 21st birthday present, the other hangs on the wall of my bedroom.




The carver took me on his scooter to his workshop to pick out the masks, and then we went sightseeing.




It was all so beautiful, and sarong-filled.




While in Ubud, the 10-day Hindu festival Galungan began.




Lion/dragon dances lined the streets.




As well as a old person.




The performers were all children. This dance-drama is a battle between good (the lion/dragon, Barong) and evil (the old, evil witch Rangda). I don't know to much else about Galungan, click here to read more about Hinduism in Bali.




It was time to say goodbye to my Australian friends. I thought we'd only have the one-day bike tour together, but I ran into them as they were taking a stroll hours before they left.




It was a bit sad. This is a piece I saw right before we separated.




That night, I dolled myself up, Bali-style, and went to see a Kecak Fire and Trance Dance.




It was possibly the coolest thing I have ever seen in my life. First a section from the Ramayana was told through chanting, highly stylized dance, and amazing group choreography. The men sitting on the ground swayed, chanted, sang to add mood and staging possibilities of the dancing. For example, here the dancers have a little circle. During the epic battle at the end, they got a wide rectangle to "fight" in.




The dance ended. They brought out a pile of dried coconuts. And started the fire.




After the fire died down, a man in trance wearing a horse head headdress kicked around the embers of the coconuts. The sparks were a million dots against the sky. It was so beautiful. When he was done, he came out of the trance. His feet were completely black.




I think this picture really symbolized the attitude of Bali.




On my last morning,




I visited to Sacred Monkey Forest Sanctuary.




And saw some great erotic art.




It even had a monkey temple!




Which was absolutely stunning.




I left Ubud, and traveled to Tulamben, the home of USS Liberty wreak to learn how to scuba dive. This is my PADI mommy (Italian, grew up in the Netherlands). She was my first teacher.




She helped out (Finnish).




This one tried to drown me over and over during my Rescue Diver course. Don't worry, I paid him to do it (American).




She helped out (Finnish).




This guy arrived at Dive Concepts the same time I did (Singaporean, studying in American). We both arrived as newbies, and left smarter, stronger, and way more sexy...as Advanced Open Water (him) or Rescue (me) divers.




The dive shop had great banana pancakes. But once I'd had my fill, I knew it was time to move on...to JAVA.